Port and stilton gravy:

1. 1. Make a roux by adding the 2 tablespoons of fatty juices from the roasting pan to a saucepan, whisk in the flour, and then the ½ cup of port, and keep heating and whisking over a fairly gentle heat, until thick and bubbling.

2. 2. If you want to blend the onions and broth, do so now, by putting any but the blackened onions in the blender goblet with the beef broth, and liquidizing. Or leave the broth just as it is, straight out of the carton.

3. 3. Take the saucepan off the heat, and gradually whisk in the beef broth. When all the broth’s added, put the pan back on the heat and cook, whisking to make sure any lumps are banished, over a medium heat for 2 minutes.

4. 4. Crumble in the blue cheese, then drop in the red currant jelly and turn up the heat to let the gravy bubble for 5 minutes.

5. 5. Check the seasoning, adding salt and pepper as needed, and then the remaining tablespoon of port, along with any bloody juices – what we called red gravy when I was a child – from the carved beef. Pour into a warmed gravy boat.